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My friend Spencer had a horrible experience in an Ironman qualifier. On race
morning, he felt rested, focused and relaxed and began with a strong swim. But
jamming onto the bike course, his legs felt awful from the get go.
He kept cranking. On the big climb though, his legs began to quit. Spinning a
tiny gear didn't help. Standing didn't work. Going super slow felt bad, too.
His legs were tight, sore, wasted. Worse, his lungs were burning from the effort
of working so hard. At the top of the hill, his body was so shot he dropped out
of the race at the aid station. Six months of training down the drain.
I heard the sorry tale the next day when Spencer visited the shop to have me check
his bike. I put the bike in the repair stand, grabbed a pedal to check the
drivetrain and was stunned to find that the crank was almost immovable. Looking
closely, I was surprised to find the chainring rubbing against the frame and
preventing the crankset from turning. A deep groove in the frame marked where the
ring had rubbed during the race.
Spencer was as shocked as I was. And embarrassed. It turns out that the night
before the race, while checking his bike, he had overtightened his crankarm, which
pressed it against the frame causing the trouble.
I applaud Spencer for trying to look after his equipment. I just wish he had
done a more careful job (doing the work the night before left no time to test
ride the bike-a crucial step in the pre-race check).
Add Equipment Care to Your Tri-Training Regimen
Few sports utilize as much equipment as triathlon. Consider that the serious
athlete might own as many as three bicycles, a road and mountain bike for training
(for variety and fun) plus a full-on aero time-trial machine for race day. Add
to this a cyclist's wardrobe: shorts, jerseys, shoes, glasses, helmets, gloves,
jackets, rain gear, socks, tights and the basic tools and spares to ride safely,
and you've got a garage full.
Swimming and running don't require nearly as much stuff. But there's still a
significant amount: swimming suits, wet suit, goggles, fins, pull buoys, kickboard,
racing and training shoes, socks, shorts, shirts, jackets, etc.
Then there are all the accessories such as heart rate monitors, repair stands,
pumps, hydration devices, bike display stands, car racks. It goes on and on. It's
almost scary if you think of the cash spent on all these goodies.
Actually, the scary thing is what happens to all the stuff if you just use and
abuse it in your training and racing and never make the effort to maintain it.
As Spencer discovered, bikes especially need regular checks and service. (And
sometimes it may be best to leave the work to the experts.) But other gear
requires some attention, too, usually simple steps to ensure the stuff works
when it's needed. Following are tips for keeping your tri gear in good order.
Aero Wheels
- Make sure your spokes are tight. Because tri wheels often have fewer spokes
than everyday training wheels, the spokes often loosen. To find loose ones, pluck
each spoke, and listen to the tone. All the spokes on the front wheel should sound
about the same when plucked. On rear wheels, the right side spokes (the cog side)
are more highly tensioned than the left sides. So the rights should match each
other as should the lefts. If you find a dead-sounding spoke, spin the wheel and
see if the rim wobbles near the spoke. It probably will. To fix it, turn the nipple
on the loose spoke clockwise (when the rim is at the top of the wheel) in half-turn
increments until the tone matches its neighbors, and the wheel is straight.
- Have the right tools. Some aero wheels require special tools and spokes for
maintenance. It's a good idea to order these from the wheel maker, so you'll have
them handy should a spoke break or the wheels develop a wobble the week of a big
race. Even if you don't know how to use the tools and parts, they may come in handy
because the shop you bring the wheel to may need your tools and parts to fix the
wheel if they don't carry them (a distinct possibility with all the different
wheels out there).
- Check the rims regularly for wear. If you spot grooves developing in the
rims, closely inspect the brake pads. Often, aluminum bits or gravel gets embedded
in the brake pads causing rim wear when you brake. Pick these pieces out with
an awl or replace the pads ASAP.
- Check the quick-release skewers that clamp the wheels in the frame regularly.
They need to be fastened securely. But they should also be removed periodically
and lubed to prevent rust and make sure they close properly and hold the wheel.
Grease the center of the rod section and drip some oil into the cap where the
lever rotates. Remember: the narrow end of the springs faces the inside.
- Careful with the roof racks. Be careful mounting tri bikes on auto roof racks
if you're running a compression strap over the rear wheel. Aluminum rims can take
lots of abuse. Carbon rims however, can be worn by the chafing action of a wheel
strap. Put a different wheel on the bike before racking the bike or carry a section
of hose or foam to put over the wheel to protect the rim before you rack it.
- Inspect tires carefully. Look for cuts in the tire tread and check the tire
sidewalls for bruises or fraying that indicates possible failure. Pick out any
sharp objects in the tread so they can't work their way through further and cause
a flat. Replace worn and damaged tires.
Drivetrain
- To fine tune shifting: If the rear derailleur hesitates when shifting
toward the wheel, turn the adjusting barrel (on the back of the derailleur) toward
the wheel. And vice versa. Remember that you only turn the adjuster a half turn at
a time. Check the shifting and repeat if needed.
- Lube the chains: Chains shift best and last longest when lubed. But
don't overdo it, or the lube will turn to grime and pick up grit that wears
drivetrain parts prematurely. When applying lube, drip or spray a small amount
on, wait a bit and wipe off the excess. The goal is to have a light coat of lube.
If the chain squeaks, you need more lube.
- Check for tightness: Regularly check the pedals (the left is tightened
by turning counterclockwise), crankarms, chainring bolts, pedal bolts and cleat
bolts (on your shoes) to make sure they're tight. Just put a wrench on the part
and try to snug it. Don't force the wrench or you'll overtighten the bolts.
- Creaky pedals: If creaking from your clipless pedals is driving you
bonkers, apply a bit of lube (or try paraffin if you want clean shoes) to the
pedals where the cleats engage.
Brakes
- To tighten brakes easily: Use the adjustment barrels usually found on
the calipers (over the wheel). Hand turn the adjuster one way or the other
(depending on the design), to raise it tightening the brake adjustment. The brakes
should start grabbing when there's about 1.5 inches of clearance between the
levers and handlebar (on a road bike). Another way to judge is that there should
be about 3mm of clearance between the pads and the rim.
- Most brake pads have grooves when they're new. These channel water away from
the rim but also act as wear indicators. Check the pads weekly and replace them
when the grooves disappear.
- Sidepull brakes often get knocked off center causing one pad to drag on the
rim. Many modern brakes have a small screw atop one side of the caliper. Turning
this screw will center the brake. Turn it each way and watch the brake move and
you'll figure which way to turn the screw to center the brake. If your brakes
don't have centering screws, place wrenches on the front and back of the main
brake bolt that runs through the bicycle frame. Then move both wrenches together
to rock the brake into position.
- If the ends of the brake cables fray, they can rust and compromise the rest
of the cable. They also may cut you. Trim the cable and add a cable end (available
at shops for cheap).
Controls
- Check the bolts that hold the bars: Aero handlebars come in many
configurations and designs. It's important to check the bolts that hold the bars
in place along with those that hold the pads and other parts. Put a wrench on
each bolt and snug it. And test the bars for tightness by pushing and pulling.
It should not move.
- Make sure that the ends of handlebars are sealed with caps. Sometimes
these fall out exposing the hollow end of the bar, which can cut you badly if you
fall on it in a crash.
- Shift and brake levers need to be securely fastened to the handlebars.
Check the bolts that hold them with a wrench. (The brake bolts may be hidden
beneath the rubber hoods.) Before tightening the brake levers, make sure the levers
are aligned with each other and with the bar.
- Test the handlebar/stem unit. Test the entire handlebar/stem unit by
rapping the side of the bars with your hand while holding the front end in place
by grasping the front wheel between your legs. The bars should swivel if you crash
to save your equipment. But they should never move when you're riding, no matter
how bumpy the terrain. The stem bolt is what holds the bars in place. Put a wrench
on it (there may be two) and snug the bolt if it's at all loose.
- Check your seat bolts: Seats provide control by giving you a place to
rest and push with your thighs. Check the bolt(s) that holds the seat to make sure
it's tight. And snug the bolt in the frame that holds the seatpost in place to
ensure it cannot slip and let the seat lower as you ride.
Other Tri Gear
- Hydration systems: The most important thing is to keep these clean
because germs can grow inside if you don't. A good trick is to store them in
the freezer when you're not using them. And clean them regularly with one of
the available kits.
- Swimming Gear: Keep swim suits and gear in good shape by rinsing them
after use to remove chlorine and salt that can wear the materials.
- Helmet: Helmets should be replaced about every five years to ensure
they'll provide optimum protection. Keep helmets out of hot cars because the heat
can melt the helmet. And when you're travelling with a helmet, take care of it.
It weakens the helmet to bang it around and abuse it.
- Heart rate monitors: Read the directions carefully because some models
have special features and needs.
- Running and cycling shoes: If possible, get two pairs when you find
models you really like. That'll save time and trouble searching for a new pair
when the company discontinues the one you liked so much. Having two pairs also
means you have a back up when one gets soaked on a rainy run. Dry wet shoes by
stuffing newspaper inside. Never dry the shoes near a heat source because the
heat will shrink them. This is particularly important with cycling shoes, which
are sized for a glove-like fit.
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