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Skiing moguls can be frustrating, and somehow I was getting the worst of it. The run
was steep, the bumps huge and barely manageable. I just couldn’t get my rhythm. Every
turn I made felt stiff; my skis skidded like steel beams across the icy mounds. When
I turned to ride the groove between bumps, my skis poked the mound in front of me like
a javelin, not giving, not helping me turn. Finally, on the verge of losing control
altogether, I stopped. My skis bridged two huge bumps, barely sagging under the weight
of my body. That’s when I realized I was on the wrong equipment.
A Giant Slalom ski just isn’t flexible enough for the sporty bends and turns of a
steep bump slope, and in turn, a nice soft freestyle ski would chatter its way down a
smooth cruiser, never letting you reach those exhilarating top speeds with any
semblance of control. Although modern technology and shaped skis are making the whole
gear thing a lot simpler, choosing the right downhill equipment is still a technical
endeavor. Get the advice of a professional in a ski shop you trust, and keep the
following in mind.
- The parabolic-shaped ski
It used to be that advanced skiers chose a specific ski for each type of terrain they
skied, and it wasn’t uncommon for their garage to house up to a dozen pairs. A long
stiff ski for the cruisers and packed conditions, a wider more buoyant ski for deep
powder, and sporty soft ski for moguls and jumps. All-mountain skis were reserved for
intermediates and beginners.
Now much of this is changing with the increasing popularity of the parabolic-shaped
ski. The large side-cut, ranging from 30mm to as much as 60mm, encourages turns and
helps skiers keep their sense of rhythm on the slopes. Technological advances in
materials have allowed manufacturers to create skis suitable for both bumps and a
racecourse, for all ability levels. In general, remember that the more side-cut, the
easier it will be to turn. For those that like to run it out with some speed, this
may not be the best thing. For new skis, expect to spend between $400 to $800.
- The importance of the boot
No matter how great the conditions are, you won’t want to ski if you’re not
comfortable. This is why I’d place boots at the top of the list of ski gear in terms
of importance. Different styles fit different feet, so it’s hard to pick one boot
that’s best for everyone, and you’ll need to try a variety. Generally, rear-entry
boots, where the back opens up for your foot to slide in, are an antiquated beginners’
boot.
You’ll find better performance and more comfort in a front entry boot (slide your
foot in from the top; the boot buckles on the front). Boots have various degrees of
stiffness, the stiffest being a more advanced, secure boot. But don’t buy a
tight-fitting boot for performance, if it’s not comfortable. Look for multiple
buckles, options to adjust the cant, or pitch of your foot in the boot, and
adjustments around the toe box. Generally, the more options to custom fit, the
better. Some skiers have custom footbeds made from their local ski shop—a great
option if you’re seeking the best fit possible. For new boots, expect to spend
between $200 and $500.
- Bindings
No more buckling and tying a ski leash to your leg. Bindings have evolved over the
years to the status of a finely tuned machine. Almost any new downhill binding will
meet basic skiers’ needs for quality and performance. More advanced skiers will want
to look for multiple angles of release, proper foot positioning, and light weight.
Every binding has at least a toe and heel release, the safety mechanism that allows
the binding to let go of your boot in a fall. The greater the possibilities for
release, the lesser the likelihood that you will sustain injury by twisting your
limbs to find that one release point. For new bindings, expect to spend between $150
and $300.
- Poles
Poles are the least important aspect of downhill ski gear, although there are many
options for the consumer. I use the cheapest pole available because I tend to break
poles. If weight is a concern, and price isn’t, check out a carbon fiber or composite
pole. They’re slim, light, and strong. Racers may want a shaped pole, allowing the
pole to curve around the body to achieve a more aerodynamic profile. New poles will
cost between $25 and $100.
- Outerwear
Last but not least, your outerwear is as important as your hardware. Make sure you
are prepared for the conditions with warm insulating layers and a windproof/waterproof
shell for when the weather turns nasty. Water proof, breathable gloves or mittens are
recommended, and goggles are a necessity if you want to find your way off the mountain
or salvage a day of skiing in a storm.
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