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The old saying, “Once you learn how to ride a bike, you never forget,” is
true—to a point. Cycling’s easy to do, but mastering a few simple
tips and techniques adds to the enjoyment.
Bike Size
The first step is ensuring that your bike is the right size for you. A
rough rule: Straddle the top tube with feet flat on the ground (while wearing
shoes in which you’ll ride). On a road bike, you need about two to
three inches of clearance between crotch and tube. On a mountain bike, it’s
about four to five inches.
Bike Fit
A good local bike shop is the best place to get a proper
fit, but here are some guidelines: You should have a 30 to 34 degree bend in
your knee with your foot at the bottom of the stroke. If your hips rock when
you pedal, the saddle’s too high. Your saddle should be level or tipped
down 1 to 2 degrees. With crankarms parallel to the ground, drop a plumb line
(a string with a weight on the end) from the front of the forward kneecap.
The string should touch the end of the crankarm. Reach to the handlebar should
be comfortable—elbows and shoulders relaxed—with no sharp bend in
your back. Your bike dealer can make adjustments or even swap parts.
Riding Techniques
Relax your upper body. This absorbs road or trail shock so you won’t
crash if you hit a rock or pothole. Always keep your thumbs wrapped around
the handlebar or brake levers so your hands won’t slip off. Look
10- to 20-plus feet ahead of you instead of at the front wheel.
Then you’ll anticipate what's coming and react in time. Be predictable:
Signal early for turns, ride on the far right of the lane (or in the shoulder
or bike lane) but not too close to the road edge or debris. Traffic laws vary
but, as a general rule, ride single file. On the trail, ride in control and
reduce speed around hikers, equestrians and other users.
Stopping
Squeeze both brake levers simultaneously and gradually. Unless it’s an
emergency, don’t grab them violently—modern brakes are powerful and can
flip you if you’re not careful. Don’t use just the front brake (the
left lever when seated on a conventionally assembled bike.) If you must make
a panic stop, thrust your weight far back, with your butt practically hanging
off the rear of the seat. Practice panic stops in an empty lot.
Pedaling and Shifting
You must be pedaling to change gears, but ease up slightly on pedal pressure
as you shift. Try to anticipate shifts, so you don’t get caught in the
wrong gear at the base of steep hill or when starting from a traffic light.
For maximum comfort and efficiency, shift to a gear that lets you maintain
a cadence of at least 60–70 rpm (pedal revolutions per minute). That means
lower (easier) gears for climbing, higher ones for downhills, tailwinds, etc.
Focus on pedaling in smooth circles.
Climbing
When ascending on a road bike with a drop handlebar, rest your hands on the
top of the bar or brake hoods. If your mountain bike has bar-ends (short
handlebar extensions), try putting your hands there. Find a comfortable gear
and cadence, relax, and look ahead. For short, steep hills or for a break on
long climbs, put your hands on brake hoods or bar-ends and rise out of the
saddle. Allow the bike to rock a few inches side to side and let your body
weight help power you. Your butt should almost graze the tip of the saddle.
Cornering and Descending
When turning right, keep your right pedal up so it doesn’t hit the ground.
(And vice versa for left turns.) Gently lean into the corner, but push on the
left (down) pedal to increase traction. Traffic or trail conditions permitting,
start the corner wide (but without leaving your lane and drifting toward any
oncoming traffic), cut to the apex, and exit wide. On curvy descents, keep your
hands near the brake levers. Brake before turns rather than during them. In wet,
oily, sandy, or bumpy conditions, greatly reduce your speed and lean
angle.
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