Aspen, Minus the Lear Jets

If you’re among the misguided majority, you recognize Aspen, Colorado, but not Glenwood Springs. That glitzy little ski-town-of-the-stars 25 miles up the Roaring Fork River from here—here being Glenwood—gets so much attention that our entire region is often referred to as “Down Valley.” It’s embarrassing.

Here, down along the mighty Colorado River, the outdoorspeople look pretty much the same as Up Valley, but you’ll see more F350s than Range Rovers, and more Carhartts than Banana Republic. Glenwood Springs isn’t the Lear Jet per capita capital of the world, but it is an all-season mecca for play boating, mountain biking, fly fishing, hiking, trail running and rock climbing—not to mention in-line skating, Old West curio, and a venerable tradition of natural hot springs spa decadence.

In fairness, Aspen is still the only place to drop $65 a day for powder skiing on par with a bad day at Alta. (Glenwood’s local area, Sunlight, charges a paltry $30, allowing all sorts of riffraff onto the slopes.) And nothing beats Up Valley if you’re shopping for rare furs, craving a $25 fajita, or really want to be understood as a person based on the brand of sunglasses you wear.

I digress. Aspen is Aspen and it keeps us entertained. If you’ve clicked this far it’s not because you want to see and be seen, but to ride, run, or climb someplace new.

Southern Style Travel to the deep south—Chattanooga, Tennessee—and discover the hidden gems in the area for rock climbing, kayaking, and more..

Glenwood Springs is on the west edge of the Rockies, a three-hour drive from Moab, Utah, and about the same from Denver. Mountains or canyon lands—you’re close to both. The famed gambler Doc Holiday died here, not on the wrong end of a gun but in bed. Maybe he was resting after mountain-biking his namesake trail. You can ski in the winter, same as Aspen, but you’re not snowbound so you can also do all your other favorite sports—all in the same day if you like. Consider exploring these:

Hike. Hanging Lake. Do this if you arrive in town by mid-afternoon and want to blaze up something short and steep before dark. Drive west on the interstate to the well-marked trailhead parking about 15 minutes out of town. Evaporite formations at the lake will intrigue geologists and shroomers.

Mountain bike. A stout little loop with negligible road miles connects the Doc Holiday and Boy Scout trails. To speed recovery upon your return, park at the Glenwood Springs Brewing Company (aka the Brewpub), near the train station on 7th Street. Doc Holiday begins a short ride from the pub, at the East end of 12th Street. From there, ride the old jeep track (gated), past a second gate at the cemetery (Holiday’s final resting place). Unrelenting cranking (and probably some pushing) leads to welcome switchbacks and finally the top of the hill, with a view of Mount Sopris and the Elk Range above Carbondale. Go left here, traversing a mile or so to your first left, the well-traveled singletrack of the Boy Scout Trail, and hence ecstatically down to 8th Street. Two hours roundtrip, if you’re semi-fit. Once back at the Brewpub, let us recommend the No Name Nut Brown.

Rock climb. Spend a day at Rifle, Colorado’s only true international sport-climbing destination, one hour west of town. For adventure climbing, there’s the Black Canyon, the most intimidating rock-climbing area in the United States, an hour and a half to the southwest. Or, between rounds of miniature golf, you can still sneak in some sport climbing at Puoux (no guidebook), 5 minutes east of town, just past the interstate tunnel. There’s more climbing, including ice. Inquire locally.

Kayak. Try Shoshone, a frolicking (at low water) to raging (late May and early June) section of the Colorado just east of town. Easy shuttle from the interstate exit to the take out at Two Rivers Park, at the junction with the Roaring Fork, another fine river to explore.

Hot springs. The big Glenwood pool is family fun, with more beached whales than the Pacific coast. Nevertheless, couples might catch the evening discount and glide through the mists in the last hour before the 10 p.m. closing. For true thermal indulgence, however, skip the pool and do as the old Utes did—visit the Yampa vapor caves (open 9 until 9 daily, $8.75). Cheap massages, mud enemas, and such are available on request. Or, join the colorful crowd of bikers and hobos at the free riverside pools just upstream from the interstate on-off ramp.

Skating. Start your “rest day” with an in-line skating tour of the river trail, Glenwood’s best paved attraction. Pick it up at No Name and skate up Glenwood Canyon, or at Two Rivers Park (there’s a skate ramp here, too) for in-town riverside cruising.

Eating. For those who think unlimited chips and salsa is a civil right and also happen to like shrimp fajitas, try Mi Restaurante. Or, practice your Spanish at Juanito’s on the south side of town. If you don’t mind waiting for a seat, try the Italian Underground near the bridge. For daily bread, find the best whole-grain breads and muffins in the valley at Wild Rose Bakery, near the Brewpub.