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Home » Sports » Adventure »

Trouble in Paradise

It’s Saturday on a picture-postcard June morning in Yosemite National Park. The park pulses with life: birds chirp, waterfalls explode from the high country, pines bend under a brisk wind, and I’m waiting in line.

I waited in line to get in the park, I’m waiting in line to get a campsite, and I’ll most likely wait to leave the park. Standing in line, it seems, is part of the Yosemite experience. No wonder. According to the Wilderness Society, the park’s capacity is roughly 10,500 people a day. But on peak days nearly 20,000 people throng the trails, campgrounds, and cracked asphalt parking lots that score one of the most scenic places on Earth.

It hasn’t always been like this. In the 1940s, the park had 400,000 visitors a year. In the 1970s, yearly visitation jumped to more than 2.5 million. Today, with 4 million passing through a year, the National Park Service is finding it increasingly difficult to tightrope between its dual responsibilities of protecting the land and ensuring that the Joneses from Cleveland enjoy their stay.

It’s no easy task. Consider the embattled, ever-changing Yosemite Valley Plan, which stakes out several ways to reduce the park’s notorious crowds, as well as restore some land to its natural state.

The new plan, unveiled in late March, focuses on the ecological restoration of the Merced River—a sometimes lazy, sometimes tumultuous river that spills from the high country, wends through the Valley it helped create, and eventually moseys past the sleepy gateway community of El Portal. The plan proposes to reduce riverside development, remove a dam, and move campsites located in flood zones. It also retains several traffic-combatting provisions, such as the consolidation of parking areas, more bicycle and walking trails, and less automobile congestion. Public hearings will be held through mid-June. The fun continues.

Headaches appeared as if on cue. Although few would argue against reducing Yosemite Valley traffic, every option in the plan irked at least one special interest. The first option, vehicle reservation for day-use access, could put an end to last-minute weekend trips. Those who lived nearby, like myself, would have to plan trips months in advance. The second option, a regional transportation system, loomed as a logistical nightmare. It would require the bus system of a mid-sized city, and the construction of huge parking lots outside the park. A third option, perhaps most troublesome to conservationists, called for a parking lot smack in the Valley’s western end, which could cause more, not less, environmental impact.

Online Resources
  • http://www.nps.gov (National Park Service)
  • http://www.npca.org/index.shtml (National Parks Conservation Association)
  • http://www.tws.org/standbylands/parks.htm (The Wilderness Society)
Largely because of intense flak, the plan and most of its options have petered out. Perhaps the Park Service realized that such draconian measures aren’t necessary—at least not yet. Visitation dipped to 3.6 million people last year, and different parking and traffic patterns have untangled some of the midsummer gridlock. The most recent management plan has been whittled down to focus mostly on the Merced River. It has already attracted hundreds of public comments in the few months since it was drafted.

So that’s National Park politics: long on talk, short on action. It’s not easy hammering out regulations that affect millions of people as well as the most treasured lands in the country. But it’s a necessary debate, and probably taking up space in the op-ed section of your local paper. After all, every state but Delaware has a National Park. Of the 378 areas, totaling more than 83 million acres, Pennsylvania’s Thaddeus Kosciuszko National Monument is the smallest at 0.02 acres. Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is the largest at more than 13 million acres.

What do people think of the nation’s park system? They’re pessimistic, but hopeful. According to a 1998 Colorado State University study, 54 percent believe that national parks will be worse off in 25 years. But more than 90 percent are willing to minimize crowds and traffic through reservations, bus systems, and limiting the number of daily visitors.

That’s asking a lot from a slow-moving Park Service; don’t look for a bus system to grace a big park near you any time soon. But sometimes a little asking does wonders. A few years ago, a National Parks and Conversation Association survey determined that most people would like to ban personal watercraft such as Jet Skis from parks. They’re too noisy, they pollute, and they scare off wildlife—not quite what Teddy Roosevelt had in mind when he envisioned a national park system.

The Park Service agrees. Starting in April, most types of powered watercraft are banned in 66 parks, recreational areas, and seashores. Watercraft, however, can still be used in 10 recreation areas that have traditionally been Jet Ski destinations, such as Nevada’s Lake Mead.

Another survey found that most people don’t want to shout above the drone of sightseeing aircraft as they’re relaxing streamside. So on March 15, Congress passed the Air Tour Management Act, which bans all tourist flights over Rocky Mountain National Park, and requires all parks to devise air-tour management plans that mitigate all that airplane racket. Peace and quiet at last.

There’s more good news. Congress recently passed a massive spending package that includes a whopping $1.4 billion for the National Park System, which translates to a nearly $80 million increase over last year’s budget. The windfall is expected to help the Park Service buy more land, including an area of desert adjacent to the Mojave National Preserve and marine sanctuaries along the California coast.

Despite these improvements, the to-do list continues to grow. Raw sewage is leaking into the watershed at Yellowstone National Park, helicopters still buzz the Grand Canyon, and thanks to air pollution, the summer view from Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains National Park is only 12 miles. Fifty years ago, visibility averaged 60 miles.

So enjoy your National Parks, but realize that when it comes to controlling crowds and ensuring conservation, the Park Service has its hands full. You can help. Visit the parks near you. Learn what’s going on. Get involved. If you see something you don’t like, write to your congressperson, attend a hearing, or talk to a ranger. After all, they’re your parks. 





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