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My discovery of New Hampshire’s Mount Washington Valley in 1997 was a bittersweet slap
in the face, a confusing combination of regret and epiphany. On that cool fall day, as I
pedaled along the riverside singletrack of the Lower Nanamocomuck Trail, dodging the
occasional orange-hued maple leaf as it floated to the forest floor, I mentally berated
myself: What the hell was I thinking? Why did it take me so long to get over here?
I know exactly why. Growing up in rural Vermont, I was raised to regard New Hampshire with
mild disdain. Not for any good reason, mind you, but simply because the teasing, jocular
rivalry that exists between the states is so much a part of culture and folklore that
it’s impossible to escape. To the objective observer, the two states are remarkably
similar: terrain rugged and mountainous, borders drawn to the same elongated-pork-chop shape.
Both states produce brilliant fall foliage, maple syrup, granite, and antiques in equal
abundance. Both are inhabited by rugged, prideful people, made more rugged and proud by long,
harsh winters—winters that make the fleeting summer all the sweeter.
With these striking similarities, it’s hard to figure exactly how the feud began, but
since my first visit to the Mount Washington Valley region, I’ve developed a simple
theory: Vermont doesn’t have a Mount Washington Valley, and she’s jealous. Very,
very jealous.
Outdoor riches
As she should be, because the Mount Washington Valley is perhaps the finest mountain
sports mecca east of the Rockies. That’s a strong statement, and one bound to raise
some ire, but it’s simply true. Forget the namesake peak, which tops out at a lofty
6,288 feet and features the worst weather in the world. (How’s 20 feet of snow, 50
degrees below zero, and wind gusts up to 231 mph—the highest recorded wind speed in
the world—strike ya?). Forget the ballyhooed Tuckerman’s Ravine, which draws
backcountry skiers and hikers from across the country and Canada. Forget even the stunning
drive, or—better yet—bike ride up the valley-splitting Route 16. Even without
these calling cards, Mount Washington Valley would be an embarrassment of outdoor riches..
How else do you describe a region that borders the 774,000-acre White Mountain National
Forest, home to hundreds of miles of multi-use trails that access remote wilderness ponds
and bony peaks boasting views to snatch away what little breath you have left? How else
do you describe a region where you could—given sufficient calories and
motivation—experience world-class hiking, mountain biking, road biking, rock
climbing, kayaking and canoeing, in a single day? And that’s just in the
summer. Come winter, you can...ahh, forget it. I don’t need to make you jealous, too.
I doubt I’ll ever come to feel the same affection for New Hampshire as I do for my
beloved Vermont: Chalk it up to brainwashing during my formative years. But in October 1997,
as I danced with my bike over a mere fraction of the trail system that laces the region,
I felt deeply in love with the Mount Washington Valley. I knew I’d be back often,
and I have. Yeah, I’m envious of the friends I’ve made in the Valley, friends who
ride and hike and ski these trails every day. But I’m thankful, too. Thankful for
every minute I spend there, and thankful that the Valley always welcomes me, even if I am
just another jealous Vermonter.
Hiking
Where to start? Wherever you want, really, but you can’t go wrong with the
9-mile Mount Adams Loop. At a “mere” 5,774 feet, Adams, with its craggy
summit, deep ravines, and narrow ridges, can’t claim highest-peak honors, but your
legs and lungs won’t know the difference. Warning: This is an arduous hike. Plan to
be on the trail at least seven hours.
If your aspirations are a bit more modest, check out the Glen Boulder Trail.
While it’s steep and rough in sections, it’s a relatively short 3-mile hike.
And the views from the gigantic Glen Boulder can’t be beat.
Mellower yet is the hike to Black Cap’s stony summit. Leave from
Hurricane Mountain Road on this 2.2-mile trek to the peak, where several spur trails
lead to different views of the valley.
Maps: http://www.mapadventures.com
Mountain biking
Though the off-road riding in the Mount Washington Valley can be
extremely (make that EXTREMELY) challenging, there’s a good selection of beginner
and intermediate terrain. Less experienced riders will fall in love with Rob Brook
Road, a gated forest service road that begins about one mile north on Bear Notch Road
from the Kancamagus Highway. Rob Brook accesses a number of more challenging offshoots,
like the Birch Hill Trail, or the Church Pond Loop. If your technical skills
are honed, don’t miss the Nanamocomuck Trail. It’s a 7-mile slice of
classic New England terrain (read: rooty, rocky, and tough).
Maps, trail info: Red Jersey Cyclery, http://www.redjerseycyclery.com/index.cfm
603-383-4660
Guided tours for all levels: Epic Mountain Tours; 603-356-8205
Road biking
The ride up Route 16, which splits the Valley, is fantastic, but
even better is the Bear Notch Loop. It’s an arduous ride of about 40 miles,
with a long climb up Bear Notch, but the views (and gravity-assisted rip down the other
side) are well worth it. A triple chainring-equipped road bike is a good idea, or just
slap a set of slicks on your mountain bike.
Ride directions: Red Jersey Cyclery, http://www.redjerseycyclery.com/index.cfm; 603/383-4660
Paddling
The Saco River originates in the mountains of nearby Crawford Notch,
and carves its way through 200 miles worth of earth, all the way to the Maine coast.
You don’t have to go that far, of course. A few miles of the pine-lined, crystal-clear
water should be enough to satisfy your water lust. Though there are a few wild sections
during spring runoff (May), the Saco is generally mild, and navigable between North Conway
and Conway, and below the Route 302 Bridge in Conway.
It’s an easy river to self-navigate, but if you need a boat or shuttle service, contact
http://www.sacobound.com, or http://www.northernextremes.com
Local bests
- Best cup o’ joe: Morning Dew, North Conway; 603-356-9366. Look for the shack
tacked onto Olympus Sports
- Best pancakes: Yesterday’s, Jackson; 603-383-4457. Warning: They don’t
take credit cards, but do accept out-of-state checks with a driver’s license
- Best local bar scene: Delaneys, North Conway; 603-356-7776. Live music Wednesday
nights
- Best pizza: Stonehurst Manor, Route 16, one mile north of North Conway;
603-356-3113;
http://www.stonehurstmanor.com
- Best place to stay: Well, maybe not best (there are simply too many options to name a
best), but the Bernerhof, on Route 302 in Glen, is pretty darn nice (603-383-4414;
http://www.bernerhofinn.com). They
even have suites with private spa tubs, and a pub with a microbrew selection
that’ll make your head spin-literally
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